DISCoVER THE DESERT this november
The Sharqiya desert is like no other place on earth, offering views of its unique geology (ranging from aeolianite cliffs to shifting sands), patches of drought-resistant woodlands and pickup-racing Bedouin.

Now, with fresh tarmac being laid around it, a host of desert camps open for the tourist season and the beginnings of winter, this November might just be the perfect month to plan a visit.

Stretching from Muscat all the way to the Arabian Sea at Al Ashkharah, the highway will take you past all the towns from where dirt tracks lead into the desert, to the south. If you give them advance notice, many camps will organise to pick you up from the highway itself. Follow our directions to get to any point along the way:

• Head west out of Muscat, past the airport.
• Zero your odometer at the Al Sahwa clocktower roundabout and turn south towards Nizwa
• 32km turn to Sur
• 184km turnoff to Wadi Bani Khalid (don't take this, continue straight)
• 221km Al Kamil
• 222km right to Al Ashkharah
• 240km Jaalan Bani Bu Hasan, Jaalan Bani Bu Ali
• 283km Al Ashkharah

The thousand nights
Empty Quarter Tours organises the 1,000 Nights Camp about 40km from the main road at Mintrib. The camp is reached by 4WDs, but thereafter no vehicles are allowed inside the camp area. The main reception is a big handmade Bedouin tent with Arabian carpets and pillows. For accommodation there are similar tents under cineraria trees – equipped with carpets, a couple of beds, tea table, a cool box, chairs, candles and attached toilets.

There is a restaurant with low seating and tables, which offers Arabic starters, Omani barbecue, salads, fresh fruits and dessert. Soft drinks, water, dates, tea and coffee are available free at all times.

The accommodation tents come in two sizes: the double tent will cost RO50 while the single tent costs RO40. Accommodation for children under 12 years can be made in the same tent for an additional RO5. The camp organisers offer shuttle service to and from Mintrib for RO40 and a camel ride can be enjoyed for RO5 per person.

Through the Samail
Mark Tours offers a choice between a day tour and an overnight stay in the sands of the Sharqiya. The day tour involves a drive from Muscat to Fanja through the Samail Gap, where you can catch a glimpse of village life in Rawdah and Al Akhdar. You will also be taken to the ruins of the old mercantile community of Al Mansfah near Ibra.

The day tour will then take you to the cool pools of Wadi Bani Khalid, perfect for a long swim. After a relaxing picnic lunch the tour moves on to the Sharqiya Sands where you can enjoy dune bashing before returning to Muscat in the evening.

The overnight tour also starts with a drive to Fanja through the Samail Gap – where you will be accorded a glimpse of life in the Samail village – and on to the pit weavers of Al Akhdar via Rawdah. After a picnic lunch, served in the shades of plantations, the tour takes you to the desert sands of the Sharqiya. Once there, the organisers will take you dune bashing and you can opt to take a camel ride as well. Dinner is a barbecue, after which you can choose to sleep under a starlit sky or in one of the barasti huts. On your way back to Muscat, you can stop at the clear pools of Wadi Bani Khalid for a relaxing swim.

Adventures of a nomad
The overnight package offered by Nomadic Adventures Camp will take you to an idyllic setting. Accommodation is in barasti huts equipped with comfortable beds. Bungalows, constructed in the fashion of an Omani fort, are also available. A comfortable Arabian majlis with an attached dining area, offers food, refreshments and sheesha. Devoid of electric lights, the use of paraffin lamps and candles adds to the exotic nature of this camp in the middle of the desert. The package includes a transfer to the camp from the village of Al Wasil, authentic Bedouin cuisine for dinner and breakfast, a visit to a Bedu family, camel rides and dune bashing. Adults can stay at a hut for RO32 per person or share a hut for RO28 per person. Children between five and 12 years can share one with adults for RO10 while those below five can stay for RO6.

Dunes and pools
Orient Holidays' 'Dunes Dinner' package involves an overnight stay and costs RO45 per person. It includes dune bashing, a barbecue dinner under open skies, breakfast and transport to and from the camp via Ibra. The 'Dunes and Pools' package is a day tour that will take you first to Ibra to watch the famous women's souq and then to Wadi Bani Khalid.

After a swim and a picnic lunch there, the tour proceeds to the Sharqiya desert for dune bashing before returning to Muscat. This package costs RO115 per vehicle.

Turtles in the sand
A full day tour of the Sharqiya Sands and Wadi Bani Khalid is arranged by Sun and Sand Tours for RO120. At Sharqiya you will experience driving on the sand dunes as well as a visit to a Bedouin community. There will be the chance for you to ride a camel and the opportunity to meet Bedouin women and purchase traditional handicrafts. Then you will travel to Wadi Bani Khalid for a walk along the riverbed. Included in this package are a picnic lunch and light refreshments.

The more adventurous can opt for a package that will have you spend three nights in the company of undulating dunes. Starting in the morning you will experience a desert drive to the camp at Mintrib where you will settle at your first campsite. After lunch there will be time to get to know the Bedouin life by meeting local people. Day two will take you across the Sharqiya to the village of Qihayd, on the edge of the Arabian Sea. This is followed by a barbecue dinner. On the third day you will travel along the coast and drive through Qurun to arrive at Al Ashkharah. The tour then moves on to Ras al Jinz where you will take a guided walk along the sand and see giant sea turtles laying eggs under the moonlight. Finally you will travel to Sur and visit the shipyard where traditional dhows are built. You also visit Qalhat on your way back. This extended trip of the desert costs RO350 per person for a group of two and RO300 per person for a group of four.

There is a shortened version of this tour , which lasts for two nights and three days. The journey will take you through Quriyat, the Tiwi village and Sur to Ras al Jinz and on day two you will pass through Al Ashkharah, Wadi Bani Khalid and the Eastern Hajar Mountains to the desert. On the final day a camel ride will be organised, followed by a meeting with Bedouins before returning to Muscat. This tour costs RO250 per person for a group of two and RO160 per person for a group of four.

550km in 11 hours
Al Hashar Tours organises day trips of the Sharqiya desert region that will take you on a journey of 550km in 11 hours. It includes dune bashing and a visit to Wadi Bani Khalid. The package costs RO100 per vehicle.

A choice of tents
You can enjoy the desert up close at the Al Areesh Wahiba Camp. It offers two kinds of accommodation – permanent tents with attached toilets and standard tents. Adults can stay at the permanent ones for RO20, while children between six and 12 years can stay for RO10. Children below six can stay for RO5 per night. Should you take a standard tent you will be paying RO16 for an adult and RO8 for a child between six and 12 years. Children smaller than six can stay for free. A tour guide or a driver will cost you an additional RO6 per night. The rates include accommodation, dinner and breakfast. Lunch at the camp comes for an additional RO3.500 per adult and RO2.500 for children. The camp organises exploration opportunities and various forms of entertainment. You can choose between a visit to a Bedouin settlement, a camel ride and a bit of dune bashing. For those more inclined towards enjoying the desert and its desolate beauty the camp also organises long desert trips for RO20 per vehicle.

The one day nomad
Zahara Tours and Travels organises a full day tour of the Sharqiya that will include meeting local nomadic tribes. You will also visit Wadi Bani Khalid and its clear water pools before returning to Muscat. The package comes for RO120 per vehicle.

The oasis trail
Golden Oryx Tours offers a day tour as well as an overnight trip. The day tour – 'Desert Adventure and Oasis Trail' – costs RO120 per vehicle and can be shared between four passengers. The tour starts at around 8am, leaving the bustle of Muscat behind as you are driven to the Sharqiya Sands. You will be taken for a drive through the sand dunes, given a close look at Bedouin life and also have the opportunity to go for a camel ride. You will then be taken to Wadi Bani Khalid before heading back to the city in the evening.

The overnight tour package costs RO170 per vehicle for a maximum of four passengers. It is a 24-hour tour that starts at 1pm and ends at 1pm the next day. With the overnight package you will have the chance to spend the night in a desert camp. After a drive in the dunes and a visit to a Bedouin house you reach the camp where you will experience a traditional Omani dinner. Next day after breakfast visitors are taken to Wadi Bani Khalid before returning to Muscat.