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Croque madame
 
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The little secrets of CaFé Glacier

How the search for a good cappuccino turned into one of our best restaurants

19 years ago, Florent Segers couldn't get a decent cappuccino at any of the leading hotels in Muscat, so he did what every self-respecting Belgian would under the circumstances – he opened his own café. And that's how Café Glacier came to be. Chances are its coffees, along with most of its menu, is better and fresher than anything else you've tried.

At the heart of its appeal is an uncomplicated philosophy that leads to decisions so simple you wonder why no one else thought of them. Like their breakfasts, for instance, which they serve through the day. "It takes us the same effort to make an omelette at two in the afternoon as it does at 8am," points out Florent's wife Martha, who runs the show at Zakher Mall. "If a customer wants his eggs for lunch, why shouldn't he have them?" Why indeed not. And as you while away your lunch, you can have your omelette with turkey, tomato, cheese, onion, mushrooms or capsicum.

16 pages of choice
Such a profusion of choices is another reason why you will keep coming back here. There are more than 500 choices in the menu that stretches across an Earth-shattering 16 pages and feels more like a hotel register than a collection of dishes. There are 28 hot beverages that you can have, from the mocaccino maison with caramel to the rosehip and hibiscus herbal tea. There are another 32 cups of pure origin coffees to sift through and more than 65 cold drinks, from Ice Karkadih to the Windless Hurricane to a sweet Swahili number called Malaika. The Café Glacierwill also sell you tins of the prized Rombouts brand of coffee, and also supplies hotels in Oman with them. Started in 1896, Rombouts is also the chosen coffee of the Belgian royal court and is considered to be the most prestigious brand of coffee in Japan. But the real star of the show, we are told, is the frozen yogurt that Omani customers, who make up almost 80 per cent of Glacier's diners, can't get enough of.

Best with cream
Such dishes are close to the heart of Café Glacier, which started out with just pancakes, waffles and ice cream, and will send you into raptures of delight. You can have the pancakes the usual way, with fresh cream, maple syrup or ice cream, or you can make a meal with fillings of chicken, cheese, turkey or mushrooms. Ours had cheese and mushroom, a deliciously soft filling. Like much of the equipment the pancake machines have been imported from Belgium, and parts are couriered over when they need them.

There are a staggering 19 ways you can have your waffles, involving everything from strawberries to cinnamon.

Days and weeks
Likewise, the ice cream machines are imported from Italy, and the Carpigianis boil the mix of Belgian Colac all the way to a boiling point of about 85ºC, before rapidly freezing it down to 4ºC, which helps preserve the best quality. But there's more to their ice cream than just fancy names. They make it up to two times a week, which means that when you dip in with your scoop, your ice cream is only days old at the maximum. Contrast this with ice cream from a global chain, which is shipped across continents, via regional hubs, and you’re talking at least five weeks older.

Madame and monsieur
It is on page 13 of the menu that will find your first croque in Muscat, a closed sandwich that the Glacier offers in a variety of ways. The croque originated in France as a fast food snack served in cafés, and a croque monsieur is traditionally a hot ham and cheese (typically Gruyère) grilled sandwich. Some variations abroad are dipped in beaten egg, then pan-fried in clarified butter. More elaborate versions come coated in a mornay or béchamel sauce.

Our favourite was croque madame which had in addition to its filling of turkey and cheese, a fried egg on the top, and a bit of salad on the side. The monsieur version will come without the egg and all croques either come singly or in pairs. Croque Andalouse adds tomato to the mix, while Hawaii adds pineapple, which melts in the mouth along with the cheese. There's also chicken and tuna, but madame knows best.
The origin of the name is shrouded in mystery. The word croque comes from the verb croquer which means to crunch or to munch. It first appeared on a Paris café menu in 1910 and is mentioned by Proust in one of his books. In some provinces of France a croque is a sandwich that has been dipped in egg and then broiled, which shows similarities to some recipes for croque monsieur. A croque madame is the same sandwich, served with the addition of a fried egg à cheval or on top.

Who cares?
But the best thing about Café Glacieris that it never really seems like just another business establishment. This is a place that grew out of a need for better food, providing a quality higher than was available in Muscat. You can still see this thought in the little details, like the fact that you get a little bowl of popcorn to munch on, free of charge with a glass of cola. Or that the ice cream scoop rests in running water when it isn't being used. Anyone can tell you that this will keep it clean, but few apart from Martha will add, "And it lets the ice cream in the tub scoop out better." Who cares? Glacier obviously does. Call the café at 24489245. It’s open through the week, from 9am-10pm, and until 11pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays. It is shut on Friday mornings, opening at 4pm.

The Menu

Chocolate Frappucino
Salade Nicoise
Croque Madame
Sate Maison
Croque Neptune
Croque Monsieur

Chocolate frappucino

Two espressos
Four sugar
Cubes
1/4 cup milk
Chocolate sauce
Crushed ice

Preparation
Mix all the ingredients and top with fresh cream.


Salade Nicoise

Iceberg lettuce
1 tomato
Sliced cucumber
A few strips onion,
Red and yellow capsicum
A few red radish
1 potato, cooked, chopped and chilled
1 can of good quality tuna
1 boiled egg

Preparation
Cut the lettuce and arrange on a plate. Cut the tomato in quarters and arrange with the sliced cucumber. Top with the potato, onion, capsicum, tuna, red radish and egg.


Sate Maison

Fillet of 2 chicken breasts
1 capsicum
French fries
Dressing as desired

Preparation
Cut the chicken and capsicum and skewer. Fry in oil. Arrange some vegetables on a plate and serve with fries of bread.


Croque Madame

4 slices of toasted bread
2 slices of turkey
2 slices of cheese
2 eggs
Tomato
Cucumber
Lettuce
Coleslaw

Preparation
Arrange cheese and turkey between the slices of bread and toast it. Bake the eggs. Garnish the plate with the tomato, cucumber, lettuce and coleslaw.


French nouvelle cuisine

French nouvelle cuisine
These recipes aren't on Glacier’s menus, but have been pioneered by a revival of interest in the croque, on both sides of the Atlantic.

Try them at home:

Croque Neptune

Ingredients
6 slices bread, 2 tablespoons catsup, 1lb sliced mozzarella cheese, 6oz minced clams, 2 teaspoons anchovy paste, 2 tablespoons cornstarch, 1/2 cup French dry white, 2 teaspoons soy sauce, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley and freshly ground pepper

Preparation
Toast the bread and spread each slice with some of the catsup. Trim the cheese to fit on the toast and place on the bread. Drain the liquid from the clams directly into a saucepan. Place the pot over medium heat and stir in the anchovy paste. Bring to a simmer. Put the cornstarch into a small bowl and stir in the French white to make a smooth paste. Preheat broiler. Add the cornstarch and French white to the clam/anchovy liquid and stir until smooth and when the sauce has thickened. Add the minced clams and reduce the heat. Place the bread slices under the broiler until the cheese has melted and has begun to brown - about 3 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the parsley.

To serve
Place the cheese toasts on individual plates and spoon about 1 tablespoon
of the clam sauce on top. Place the rest of the sauce in a sauceboat and
pass separately.

Croque Monsieur with béchamel

Ingredients

8 slices bread from a rustic round loaf, 1/2 pound thinly sliced ham, 1/2 pound Gruyère or Beaufort, thinly sliced, 1 cup grated Gruyère or Beaufort, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard and butter for spreading.

For the béchamel sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 cups whole milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg and cayenne pepper to taste.

Preparation
Melt butter in small saucepan until it just starts to bubble. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly until smooth but not brown. Whisking constantly, add the milk, continuing to cook until thick. Preheat the broiler and have a griddle or skillet ready. Spread the mustard on one side of the bread. Top with ham and cheese and cover with remaining bread. Generously butter both sides of the bread. Place sandwiches on hot griddle or skillet and cook about 3-4 minutes or until golden brown on both sides. Transfer the sandwiches to a broiler pan or baking sheet. Spread some of the béchamel on top of each sandwich and then top with the grated cheese. Broil for about 2 minutes or until the top is golden and the cheese has melted. Serve immediately.

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