A Syrian history Tips and Hints for our globe-totters
Although the modern state of Syria is a creation of the 20th century, the region can lay claim to having one of the oldest civilisations in the world. The Mesopotamian Akkadians were the first to covet the area, followed by the Egyptians and then the Hittites. Evidence of the first alphabet has been found at Ugarit. The country was in a top strategic spot, and its coastal towns became important Phoenician trading posts. The region became a prize for every neighbouring warmonger for over 400 years. Later, Syria was a pivotal part of the Persian, Greek and Roman empires. After Byzantium went pear-shaped, the Umayyads were followed in 750 by the Abbasids, who moved to Baghdad, starting a period of decline. The Crusaders arrived, later defeated at the hands of Nureddin, whose son, Saladin, brought prosperity back to the region. They were followed by the Mamluks and Mongols until finally, in 1516, the Ottomans took over. Modern Syrian history has seen the influence of France and Turkey.
The dead cities
Dotting the barren hills of north-central Syria, between Antioch and Aleppo, are the well-preserved remains of some 700 villages that flourished under the Roman empire of the fourth century and later. Many of them look as if they had been abandoned yesterday. Expansion was almost continuous from the late third century, reaching a peak of activity in the late fifth, then slowing until about 550. By that time the region supported as many as 300,000 people living in some 700 villages. Stagnation then set in, coinciding with a series of known disasters: Sassanian invasions, epidemics of bubonic plague, drought and famine. From the middle of the 17th century onwards living conditions deteriorated. Nonetheless, the region remained occupied through the eighth century, after which it was gradually abandoned.
Where to stay and what to eat
We stayed at Dar al Halabia in Aleppo (US$43 a night for a double) and the Cairo Hotel (US$16) in Hama, both inclusive of breakfast. You can go upmarket and pay a lot more if you want. In Aleppo there is a good choice of high quality restaurants serving Syrian specialities. When you can't even look at another mezze there is a great Italian, the Cantara, in Al Jdeida.
vital statistics
Official name
Syrian Arab Republic
Capital and largest city
Damascus, 15°21’N 12°24’E
Official language
Arabic
Area
527,968 sq km
Population
July 2005 estimate: 18,880,000
Density: 40/sq km
Currency
Syrian Pound (S£)
Time zone
GMT+3
Electricity
220VAC/ 50Hz
Calling code
+963
in and around
Air Arabia flies direct from Sharjah to Aleppo. Inside Syria intercity buses are excellent: regular, comfortable and good value. Taxis or cars with drivers are the best way to see the sights.
Culture
Events in the Middle East have unfortunately discouraged westerners from visiting Syria, but fears are quite ungrounded. The people are eager for your friendship, regardless of politics, and really need your custom. Syria is a secular state and during Ramadan there are plenty of eating facilities open during the day. Kurds, Christian Armenians, Arab Muslims and Christians all live and work alongside one another.
Language
Everyone speaks Arabic. Speaking some Arabic is an advantage since most people speak only very basic English or none at all.
Money
US Dollars are often required to pay hotel bills but local currency is good for anything else. There aren’t many ATMs in Aleppo but a taxi driver can find them.
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