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dhofar special
The dhofar trilogy

Written and photographed by Pinaki Chakravarty

More than 1,000km separate Muscat from Salalah. If you choose to drive instead of fly, you will have to keep awake for what would perhaps take you 12 hours. Some have done it in less but be prepared for a long haul, and take frequent breaks.

Remember that you have a massive stretch of desert to cross, 723km between Adam and Thumrayt. Don’t ever miss a fuel stop, and pay attention to the signs that will tell you how far away the next one is. Remember to carry enough water to survive a flat tyre or breakdown. Most of the road is single carriageway, which means you only have a painted line between you and oncoming traffic. Parts of the highway southward are cracked and in need of repair, so slow down when you see the dark patches where the tarmac has broken off.

caves
Stories of the bat cave

sea
Desert beaches at Hadbin

desert
Emptiness at Ramlat Hashman

Kilometre readings from Muscat to Salalah Total distances and those in-between

0km Muscat, Grand Mosque roundabout

146km till Nizwa

146km Nizwa intersection. Accommodation, food, filling stations, mechanics in Nizwa. Nizwa-Muscat dual carriageway with lots of filling stations ends

15.5km till Izz

161.5km Izz. Al Maha filling station

41.5km till Adam

203km Adam. Omanoil, Shell filling stations. Restaurants, accommodation

114km till Ghaba

317km Ghaba. Al Maha filling station, accommodation

97km till the trucker’s stop

414km Unmarked trucker’s stop. Not for cars

99.5km till Haima

513.5km Haima. Shell, Omanoil filling stations, food, accommodation, provisions. Major town

94.5km till Ghaftain

608km Ghaftain. Shell filling station, 24-hour restaurant, accommodation

126.5km till Qitbit

734.5km Qitbit. Shell filling station, accommodation, garage

117.5km till Sayy al Khayrat

852km Sayy al Khayrat. Al Maha filling station

74km till Thumrayt

926km Thumrayt

34.73km till Wadi Dawkah

960.73km Frankincense park at Wadi Dawkah

48.27km till Salalah

1,009km Salalah Airport roundabout

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