It is twilight over the mountains above Bander Jissa. There are probably gazelle somewhere over the slopes, but the most we see is a mound of dusty droppings and a few scratches in the earth.
It was probably hoping for too much anyway, because there are dogs barking in Qantab, 4WDs racing over the plateau behind us and the dull thump of metal against rock as a crew gnaws its way through to Yitti.

Jissa is evolving, and always has been: from sea-floor to ancient settlement to fortified garrison to tourist hot-spot. One thing has remained constant: this patch has always been prime real estate. Discover the best of it – and Oman – through this issue

Pinaki Chakravarty
pinaki@apexstuff.com