There are two extremes of road trips in this issue, and chances are that your experience of Oman will seesaw between them.

With billions of rials worth of concrete being splashed over the coast, the entire stretch between Yitti and Sifah is changing. No longer can you gallivant down the coast, discovering its secret bays �soon you will have to book rooms where once you would have camped out. Our coverage from page 60 onwards helps you through.

And then there is Jebel Waal, tucked away in the depths of the Hajar, passed over by tourists flocking to better-known attractions. It is here, now, that you can still discover routes, explore mountains you never knew existed. This thrill is increasingly becoming a luxury. We recommend you jump right in.

Pinaki Chakravarty
pinaki@apexstuff.com